A sharp pain is spreading through my lower back, all thanks to the
centre console of the car. I am 16 again on my way home from a party
with 6 in a car meant for 5. Except I can’t follow the conversation,
the music is definitely not Backstreet Boys, and there is no alcohol in
sight. The reality is that I am 28, ridding home with my In-Laws after a
day spent picking mandarins in the Turkish town of Sürmene. I think
back to the beginning of the day that started out breathtaking but has
led to holding my breath. 7 hours earlier the crystal blue of the
Black Sea lay at the mountain’s feet, the air crisp and fresh with
undertones of earth, and smoke. The sun had just topped the mountainside
that ebbs and flows like a wave. The slopes are covered in tea bushes
that look like giant dark green pillows. The varying shades of green are
offset with a spattering of bright orange from the ripe manadarins. The
houses are a mixture of wood and stone, nothing fancy, but sturdy and
sound. The largest building is a Mosque with a blue dome, and when the
call to prayer starts at 11am it echoes all through the valley. Here and
there on the slope you can see people working the land. Some are
burning pitch, most are women, wearing colourful head scarves and skirts
that should clash, but they are as much a part of the landscape as the
plush tea bushes. We climb a set of old stone steps littered with
fallen mandarins up to the home of Cansu. A teacher with short choppy
black hair and an easy smile. She works at the same school as my
Father-In-Law. Her family has lived here for centuries, but now she only
spends summers and weekends up here as it is too far from her job in
Trabzon. She is the only one who can speak English. My Mother-In-Law
Cevar has set herself up at a table outside and is gutting the small
Hamsi fish that are very popular in Turkey. I sit down and pick up a
knife in an attempt to prove that I may be foreign, but I am also
helpful and not at all a sissy girl. I pick up the 3″ fish cut the head
off, slice the belly open and pull the guts out. I glance over at Cevar
expecting a nod of respect, but all I get is Mustafa, my Father-In-Law
showing me how I to do it correctly. Mustafa thinks my inability to
understand Turkish is in direct correlation to my hearing so he is
forever shouting instructions at me. I refuse to stop until the 2 kilos
of Hamsi are headless, intent on assuring my In-Laws of my worth.
After the Hamsi are rinsed and the table cleaned up we sit down and
enjoy some freshly squeezed orange juice, a crunchy cinnamon cake, and
my all time favourite snack Börek. Börek is almost like a stuffed
croissant but not quite as flakey. Cevar knows I love this dish and
always makes it for me. Bellies filled up we all put a wicker basket
with straps onto our backs and head over to one of the many Manadarin
trees along the slope. It seems the trees have no owners and the fruit
they bear belongs to anyone willing to pick it. By mid-afternoon the sun
has disappeared into some clouds and two more teachers have showed up
to help with the picking. We fill up the trunk of my In-Laws Ford Focus
and head inside Cansu’s home to warm our hands around the wood fire
stove. Dinner is Hamsi, salad, and more orange juice, and is followed
up with several glasses of tea. I can now pinpoint this as the moment
everything started to go downhill. The conversation seems to revolve
around their work with Mustafa being the dominant player, he is the
Principal after all. In this moment he reminds me of my husband who also
tends to dominate conversations. I find myself smiling despite the
encroaching boredom, wishing he was here to explain what the hell
everyone is talking about. Cevar is not speaking very much. She does not
work at the school and therefore is on the outs almost as much as I am.
She glances my way and I give her a big smile trying to trick her into
believing I am the most laid back daughter-in-law ever, even if it is a
front. Cansu, however, is holding her own, energetically debating what I
can only guess are educational reforms, since she is no longer keeping
me in the loop. Perhaps she has used up all her English words. I really
want to play CandyCrush but settle for memorizing a flower crochet
picture instead. Finally we pack up and head to the car, and that’s when
I realize pretending to be the laid back daughter-in-law has trapped me
into sharing the front seat with Cansu, and a center console.
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